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AMT 626 quits when hot and will not restart
Yes it could and that's where I would go next.
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AMT 626 quits when hot and will not restart
I think a new module will fix it. It's the stator, the module, or the coil. Stator is very unlikely. My experience is when coils go,that's it. So Iam thinking module. I've replaced a few, definately more than coils.
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AMT 626 quits when hot and will not restart
I think you put a new module in it and see what you have. Module has nothing to do with fuel, but can cause other problems. Sounds like you could have ignition and/or carb problems too.
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AMT 626 quits when hot and will not restart
Lost your last reply in the shuffle. There are thumb screws or adjusting wheels, whatever you call them, along with an equalizer down on the brake pedal. Pretty much self explainatory, you want the equalizer to be at a right angle to the cables when you apply the brakes. If you run out of adjustment, you can loosen everything there and go back to the calipers and tighten the hex screw on the side behind the movable pad until the pads almost touch, then go back up front and finish. The pads and disc have to be clean and dry. Hydraulic oil is not good.
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AMT 626 quits when hot and will not restart
I'm thinking that you get it as close as you can and the equalizer handles the rest. Essentially it is putting the same pressure on each cable because of the equalizer, even if it's crooked. It is a primitive system and if the brakes work at all you are ahead of the game. There are many 600, 622, and 626 AMTs around with little or no brakes. Thats why everything in the system needs to be as close to perfect as you can get it.
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AMT 626 quits when hot and will not restart
If you didn't have an ignitor on your motor to start with, you probably have a newer motor with the ignitor in the coil. That would explain why it won't start now. You have a coil that needs an ignitor instead of a coil with the ignitor in it. If you can take the coil and the ignitor back and get a coil with the ignitor in it, that's the thing to do. If you can't, then the black wire coming from the coil is the wire that the ignitor connects to. Connect a wire into the middle of the black wire and put a spade connection on the other end and connect it to the ignitor. The ignitor mounts on the carb linkage plate. The plate dips down from the two bolts that hold it to the motor and the ignitor mounts in the one threaded hole that's on the flat part of the plate. It should run if you hook it up that way. There is an insulator that goes under the ignitor to shield it from engine heat, I don't if the dealer gave you one or not.
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AMT 626 quits when hot and will not restart
I'm gonna try one more time. If you read my last post it says that the ignitor is on top of the motor mounted on the carb linkage plate which is secured to the top of the motor with two bolts. Obviously you don't have an ignitor if you couldn't see it on top of the motor. Just because your dealer says you have an ignitor doesn't make it so. If you had an ignitor there would be a Y in the black wire coming off the coil and that wire would go to the ignitor. Check the three wires, two green one black coming out from under the flywheel and make sure there isn't a splice in the black wire, if so that's where the wire to the ignitor goes. If the black wire doesn't have a splice in it and you want to use the parts you have ( coil W40449 and ignitor M119146 ) you have to cut the insulation off the black wire somewhere out over the top of the motor, attach another black wire to it and attach the other end of that wire to the ignitor. The ignitor mounts where I said in my last post. So you have the black wire attached to both the coil and the ignitor. Don't cut the wire going to the coil, ( it goes to the ignition switch to shut the motor off ) just attach the wire going to the ignitor to it. I'm sure this will work. If you don't want to do all that you need a coil PN M126972, they have the ignitors in them. That's probably what you had in the first place.
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